Climbing Updates For The Highway 50 Corridor and Along Highway 88

Created and maintained by Emerald Mountain Publishing

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SUGARLOAF
Sugarloaf Sugarbun
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Old Camp Bluff NW Face
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SUGARBUN, SW face

 

SW corner of Sugarbun."Tippy Toes" in red X's, Paul Crawford, 12+. Probably no second, yet.

"Hard Rock Candy", 5.11a/b. Magenta X's. Departs from Fingerlock; John Robinson and Will Cottrell.
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SUGARBUN, North face
 
Annabelladonna", 12a, Aidan Maguire. Shares first bolt with obscure route to left. Follows extremely thin discontinuous seams (not visible here). 2nd, Chad Suchoski
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SUGARBUN, East face
 
"The Sound of Perserverance". 5.11R. It's located between "Make that Move" and the "East Crack" going more or less straight up the center of the slab that makes up most of the eastern side of the 'Bun. To climb the route, start on "Make that Move Now Baby" and instead of going over the roof after the third bolt, traverse out right around it. Clip the bolt (long runner?) and keep traversing right on a sloping ledge to a good stance and another bolt. The route continues straight up from here. Just after the last bolt is the crux. Throw for the arete as high up as possible then climb up it to the anchors. Drilled by hand. The route was never scrubbed, only a small brushing to critical holds while leading, so it may still be dirty. Two of the original 1/4in bolts still need replacing. Route specs; 9 bolts, two 5.11 cruxes, one at the first bolt, one at the last. F.A. Chad Suchoski, Jason Poncy (3-03-07).
Editor note: long runout between 1st & 2nd bolt above the "arch" could result in up to a 30' fall. Also, additional cleaning of spots was done 4/08, during Aidan Maguire's ascent, and  the dead tree appears to be down and gone. Aidan feels like this is a quality route; too bad it blanks out on the face leading left to the very top.