
SPLIT ROCK, West face
The gaping Split / Chimney, is just to the right of this photo.
"Fossilmax", 5.9, Ron Brown (fossil climber, maxed out at 5.9, & on Fosamax). Climb left near top, not right or straight to TriTip bolts.
Can TR the vague rib to the left, moderate/easy after a hard start. A very difficult TR problem might also be done to the right, but would need cleaning first.
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SPLIT ROCK,
SW toe.
"TriTip Split Roast", SW toe of Split Rock, 9+. FA unk. (The 300# block adjacent to 5th bolt was sent off - thank you to the person who sent it off; makes that move a bit harder now!). A little runout on very easy low angle after 5th bolt. Requires an 80 cm sling to protect stand-up move onto sharp third "tip", before clipping across the Split. Move somewhat left after 10th bolt to stay on face and maintain quality of climb. 40m long. Can't be TR'd w/ single rope, but can rap down west face w/ single rope. 12 bolts.
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SPLIT ROCK,
SE face
All routes can share first bolt. Approach from the north corner of the formation.
"V-Pie", 10d+/-. In honor of a Placerville restaurant. FA unk. Move down & to left on thin friction, step delicately (crux) out onto face, straight up past 4 bolts, and finally veer right to anchors.
"ROOO", 10d, (Route Of Obscure Origin, probably Harding era). FA unk. Two of the old 1/4" rusty pound-ins are still in place, but are not used; it's now retro-bolted with SS.
"Jerk Tartly Arete", 12+, Aidan Maguire. Awaits a second.
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SPLIT ROCK, north nose
"Bulbosity", 5.6, Jody Klatt. Easiest route to top and can access top anchors for other routes.
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SPLIT ROCK,
the Split
"Chim-Chiminey", 5.7R, 3 bolts in the chimney. Jay Renneberg. Finish on upper face of Tri-Tip Split Roast. An excellent chimney route.
This editor's opinion is that the route should be "5.7R-R"; for a 5.7 climber. A fall near or while clipping the first bolt would result in injury. The route is barely TR-able w/ a 60m rope by climbing Bulbosity to the anchors, rapping down, and running a directional through the bolt just across the "split" from the rock's tip.