Left Over Bun is a 20m high rock to the left, or west, or Sugarbun. This name is perhaps temporary pending correction by earlier climbers who put up routes on this formation. It is easy to get to the top anchors for the steep face left of the chimney. These anchors also work fine for protecting the chimney. Likewise, we believe the chimney has been done in the past and any name for that route would replace the name we chose. If there is a name for the variation finish to the right of the chimney, we would like to include it in the website.
Moss had completely covered the two bolts that protected the face to the right of the chimney, as well as the entire chimney area. The two existing bolts are presumed to be around 20 years old and should be considered unreliable, being 5/16" pound-ins. If we hear no objection, we will replace those anchors in the near future.
Besides the routes below, a couple more are being developed here.
Divergence, 5.9. THE BOLTS HAVE BEEN CHOPPED. There is the possibility of placing one piece of gear at a flaring block somewhat over halfway up.
? Name, 5.11? Step out onto the right face a little more than halfway up and finish on steep knob climbing to the anchors. The finish move is tough!
Belly Roll Arch, 5.11. SW corner. FA Duane Lyons, April 2010. Strenuous off-width hand jamming with no feet, to start. Needs a #4, #3, #4, then #2 cam. Clip first bolt before standing up and using holds over the roof to move through the 5.11 crux. Thin holds and almost no feet. Use slightly longer slings on bolts #3 & #4. Although a second climber (or a third, etc., if a rope is trailed) can do this route behind the leader, it is very difficult to TR due to the diagonal nature of the beast. Gear, as above, 5 bolts, top anchors. Note: top anchors will be modified this year to make them more useable.