PR-2 (see maps).
This editor proposes the name "The Scone" for this rock due to its triangular shape. Other names proposed have included Candy Corn and Pyramid Rock.
Both routes about 10c/d (?). Right route has old hangers and small bolts. If you know names or origins, please "Contact Us"
Two project routes are being developed on the east face.
On the West Butt, around to the right and uphill from the start of "Sciatica", is:
"Hot Cross Bun", 5.9. Cleaned and established Feb., 2011 by Jerry Klatt, Duane Lyons, Hank Hamilton. 25m. Completely trad, gear from 3/8" up to 1". Crux is in the steep fingercrack/ dihedral just above the start; may be 10a for a short person. Easier lieback after intial problem, then a dicey step around the corner and up to the "roof". Step over the roof and walk up the continuing crack to the top anchors under the oak tree. "Hot Cross Bun" crosses "Sciatica" and "Scatchin' It".
50m below Midway Rock and to the west of the trail, is a huge rock called Popover.
This is a riveted aid route put up by Chad Suchoski in 2010.
Around to the left (west) of Chad's route are two routes:
"Common Girl Makes Good", 5.9. Six bolts on interesting and varied face climbing. 20m. FA's Jerry Klatt, Leslie Hayes, Duane Lyons, April, 2011. Can be TR'd by placing a couple directional draws.
"Crack Me Up", 10a/b. Small (at bottom) to large (#4 at top) cams, all trad. Strenuous lieback in the slanting and diagonal dihedral. Beefy TR anchors. Cleaned and climbed April, 2011, Duane Lyons, Jerry Klatt, Leslie Hayes.
This rock is immediately adjacent to, and south of, Sugarbun. On its south or southwest corner is a spectacular overhang. A very difficult route goes up under the overhang, around to its right, and then up the face. There is one bolt/hanger at the base of the face. Nothing is known about the difficulty, but it appears to be hard 12, or 13. Very dirty, overgrown by the oak tree, so not climbed in a long time. All of the southwest corner, and the base below "Centipede", were massively tangled with treefall and branches, but there is now a reasonable path all the way around the rock. Of note, there are several large dead pine trees to the southwest of the rock, which are apparently marked for removal (could fall on the schoolground below). Hopefully they won't be felled against this rock.
"Centipede Shuffle". 5.6. 3 bolts/hangers, and smallish gear. Beyond the third bolt, goes over to the right and finishes on the low angle corner. FA Jerry Klatt, Feb. 2012; first free solo ascent Duane Lyons.
"Heart Of Sharpness". 5.9. Photo coming soon. On the southeast face of this rock; climbs a nice crack system, then left up a ramp that is a little difficult to protect, but do-able. Climb up over the roof, near the headwall, then finish on the right side of the headwall. All smaller gear. FA Duane Lyons, Feb. 2012.