AKA "S'mores Wall", the northwest face gets direct sun in the afternoon, so is best done early on warm days.
A. "The Schnozz", 5.8 jam crack, all gear. FA Jerry Klatt. Most interesting if started in the corner on the left side of the bottom block.
B. "Ear No Evil", 5.9. FA Jerry Klatt; onsight 2nd Duane Lyons. 3 bolts and smaller gear. Named for the partially detached "ear". Use caution when using the "ear"; best to jam behind it rather than yarding on it. The flake above and to its right is also a bit hollow, so a bit of judiciousness is in order when climbing this route. This is really the only section of partially decomposed rock at the Bluff.
BV. "Evil Variation", 11a, Aidan Maguire. An attempt was made to do a route up the face between A and B, but there is a blank section halfway up, so BV takes off to the right from B, most of the way up, via two bolts. There is a unique 2-finger shallow pocket that is probably the crux move.
C. "Hollow Point", 5.9 crack, all gear. Onsight FA Ben Moore. Named for a hollow-sounding flake next to which he placed sketchy pro.
D. "Marshmallow Crack", 5.8 per FA Aidan Maguire; 5.9 per this editor. All gear.
D2. "A Chickaree's Tale", 5.11. Two bolts and small to medium gear. A shallow concavity, the route stays in the grey "tail", then uses the thin crack leading to "D". Using the "D" or "E" cracks on either side reduces difficulty to 5.9 or so.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E. "3rd Degree Burn", 12b+/-. Difficult the whole way, with crux at top. Climbs straight up the shallow groove in upper portion. Route has been done on TR, but involved stemming across to the big knob on "F". Will probably be 5.13 if the route can go straight up and past the end of the shallow groove; mighty congrats to whoever can do it. Three sets of top anchors are available above routes E, F. G. & H.
The North Corner
F. "Dragon's Back", 5.11. 6 bolts (2 are close together above the first bolt; not shown). Ascends from the lower left corner, up three curving narrow ramps, then up onto a large knob, with crux moves gaining the knob and at the top. Can TR w/ directionals.
G. "Camelback", 5-11. Face around to the left from Dragon's Back. Seven bolts up continuous 10d face climbing with good stances only in bottom few meters. First bolt a little distant, and 3 meter fall is possible onto flat ground. Two sets of top anchors are available above routes E, F. G. & H.