The Old Camp Bluff is named after the old, now -demolished, Kay's Resort (there is nothing there in Summer 2010 but the boat launch facility and some portable outhouses) on Silver Lake, Highway 88, adjacent to the dam. .
The rock is a beautiful granitic, some of it orange-patina'd, and mostly very clean with some easily-scrubbable lichens near the tops. There are some 25 routes, of few of which are take-offs from each other. There are top anchors to cover nearly every climb, though in some cases, directionals would be advised. There are a number of projects, and other routes await development and first ascents. There is an excellent variety of traditional cracks, sport faces, and combination routes. Lengths vary from 10 meters to 25 meters. Route difficulties range from 5.7 to 5.13. At 7500', the area is climbable on days when the Valley is 100 degrees.
The area is pristine, try not to trample plants. If you brought it in, pack it out please. One climber brought in beer in bottles, and left his bottles and bottle caps strewn around the base of the cliff; shame or worse. If you bring your bottles or cans in full, surely you can take them out empty.
Some years have had an abundance of yellow jackets, perhaps even nesting in or near the rotten log at the base of the cliff. In 2009, they were pretty aggressive. Mosquitoes have not been a big problem, but are there on occasion.
It would be appreciated if climbers would put in a minimum of work here, tossing away loose "ankle-roller" rocks to make the cliff base safer. Not much needs to be done along the access to the cliff, but some clean-up of the final approach gully is in order, also. A number of the routes remain pretty dirty, and ten minutes of wire brushing would be appreciated by everybody.
Some toprope climbing has been done here in years past; these climbers request that bolting be kept to a minimum in honor of the beautiful rock faces here. For the time being, it does not seem that more bolting is in order, until some of the quite difficult routes can be established and led.
Regarding the access map below, as of early September, huge machines have moved in to destroy and dismantle at least portions of the old resort buildings, so some of the approach landmarks are gone. Editor will try to keep the map updated as changes occur.
NOTE: as of summer 2010, EID has posted the Sandy Cove parking lot, and the entire length of Kays Rd., as a "Fee Area", requiring $5 per car for day use. It is probable that you could get ticketed for parking, whether or not you are using the Silver Lake facilities. There is adequate nearby parking to avoid having to pay this ridiculous tariff. Editorially speaking, EID is a rich organization, and has found yet another way to bulge the coffers, at the expense of those who would like to enjoy the outdoors without paying more fees and taxes at every turn.
Park wherever it suits you along or near Hwy 88 in the general vicinity. There are a number of ways to approach Old Camp Bluff, but try one of these approach descriptions your first time in:
> Cross Hwy 88 opposite the southwest turn-off to Kays Rd. and go through a green-pipe metal gate.
> Continue to the very back of the paved "loop" and find an unsigned (couple of rocks as a duck) and faint trail heading NW. Take the trail for about 50 meters, then turn right onto a faint trail, going between a couple old fence posts on the ground. Wander left and right, left and right, generally north, on this well-ducked trail. You will meet the "alternate" route as you pass up across a slab just about the time you reach the Bluff.
> Alternate: After passing through the green bar gate, turn right, immediately, on the first dirt road, and follow it 150 meters or so.
> Just before an old redwood water tank (still there?), turn left and up on that old road (it's the first left road you come to), walking northwest/ leftish, until you are near a newer, silver, but also-defunct, metal water tank.
> Pass to the right of the metal tank on a faint trail for a few meters, turn left, cross a rotting log and go downhill briefly, then right, down into a vague swale. Do not continue northeast down the swale, just cross it and start upwards on this well-ducked portion. Thereafter, you will be hiking upwards on slabby granite, following rock ducks and in ten minutes, arrive on the "Knoll" (see map) where as of this writing, someone has built a large cairn on top of a rock, with perhaps a stick pointing upwards.
> Step down a short gully on the far side of the knoll and hike along the woodsy right side of the pond (dry in later season), bearing leftwards just after passing the far end of the pond.
> Finally, ascend a steeper rocky and sandy gully, gaining a sandy level plateau just to the left/southwest of The Bluff itself. A grand spreading Jeffrey Pine (as wide as it is tall) sits on the Bluff to your right.
> To continue directly to the base of Old Camp Bluff, continue a little left/west across the sandy plateau, go through a wide "notch", start downward toward some trees, bend right/north and then northeast.
> To go to the top anchors instead, move to the right side of the sandy plateau and go up onto the granite. Anchors are found circling along the top edge of the entire formation. On first visit, one might want to see the climbs before setting TR's, as the scramble from bottom to top is a mere few minutes.