MIDWAY ROCK, SW Face
"Goony Dunes", 9 or 10a, Jerry Klatt. Named for the golf course on Midway Island. Climb left at top rather than on the rib, to enjoy a fine and slightly harder finishing move.
"Turning Point", (as the battle of Midway was said to be), 10b. FA Duane Lyons, 2nd Jerry Klatt.
Thin in the middle and at the top. Note: the 6th hanger that was flattened by treefall has been replaced.
A TR-only problem is being worked on, between Goony Dunes and Turning Point.
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MIDWAY ROCK, West face
"Urchins Ate the Coral", 10d. First known lead: Duane Lyons, 12/07. Name taken from all the bare patches as a result of chipping away loose 'coral'. This route is to the left of "Turning Point". Shares first bolt with "Dauntless".
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"Dauntless", 11b/c, FA Aidan Maguire, 3/08.Very thin in the middle section. Shares first bolt with, and is to the left of, "Urchins Ate The Coral". Onsite & probable second ascent: Brandon Lawson, 3/08.
The Dauntless was the fighter plane so successful in the battle of Midway Island in WW II.
"Smooth As A Lagoon", 5.12, to the left of Dauntless, is currently a TR problem of the thinnest friction and rare tiny edges. TR anchors in place, but using the "Dauntless" anchors works better for now (a fall near the bottom while using the "Lagoon" anchors could swing you into the rocks to the left).
SOUTH CORNER AND FACE; SOUTHEAST CORNER AND FACE
A: Erin Arete. See photo below.
B: "Catapult", 5.10c. FA Aidan Maguire, Nov. 2011. This is a fine extension to either Flight Deck (in blue) or Self Abuse (the butt crack corner). When crossing the top of Self Abuse, put a long sling around a partially detached horn.
C: Flight Deck, an old classic at 5.11d.
E: Goony Dunes; see the description above.
"Erin Arete", 5.11a. FA Aidan Maguire, Dec. 2011. Named for a friend's daughter. The friend supplied hardware for this route. At the oak tree, delicately traverse left across lowish-angle slab to a prominent knob. Then up and left, going over a bit of a roof. Then up to the arete. Rather than add an additional bolt right near the top, a length of chain will be added, to which you can make a clip, to protect the final move (the chain is not intended for direct aid!).
MIDWAY ROCK, East face
"Wish It Was A Palm Tree", 5.9. Yellow X's, blue is shared w/ "It Seams - - -". FA Duane Lyons, 2nd Jerry Klatt, 12/07. Northeast face of Midway. Place 70 cm sling as high in the tree as possible, chimney the tree/rock, step out onto face on lowest small knob to clip first bolt (or climb difficult face at bottom). Climb mostly on knobs. Closely bolted for the climber wanting to lead first 5.9 sport route.
"It Seams To Go To Mid Way", 5.11. Red X's, blue is shared w/ "- - - Palm Tree". Follows a very nice thin seam to just past midway along the climb. The opening moves are thin and hard with a couple of starting possibilities. By the time one clips 2nd bolt, climbing becomes pretty continuous and enjoyable 5.9, and crosses over " - - - Palm Tree". Then a dicey move around the bulge; don't climb upwards after the third bolt, continue right with the 4th bolt above you. A little runout above top anchor, with easier climbing at that point. Probable FA by Tom Hughes, May '08.
Variation to "Undercling" (Carville name) or "Diagonal Right" (McNamara name) is the cleaned-up crack going straight up, left of the bolted routes. This aesthetic line is very similar to the "Hard Up" variation to "Over Easy" at Phantom Spires.