Sugarloaf Main Rock, upper NW area
"Hanging By A Thread", 12a, F.A. Aidan Maguire; 2nd Chad Suchoski. Upper west
face. Chimney/stem between block and main wall, step out onto wall when second bolt
is about chest high.
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"Northern Lights", 12a, Scott Bye. Far up on NW face.
Sugarloaf Main Rock, west face, lower
MISC.: 2 bolts have been added to the horizontal section of Grand Delusion,
where the pitons used to be.
"Mackerel Sky", 11b, Aidan Maguire, assisted by Jerry Klatt. 4/2011. Start up West Chimney, watching for first bolt/hanger, which you clip when it's about head-high. Having set up the move with a wide stem across the chimney, use footholds on the edge of the arete to spin around, facing the face. Climb slab, then headwall to belay anchors. 2nd pitch starts up a groove, then headwall moving left, then a bulge/arete to the top anchors. Can be TR'd with a 70m rope, from atop the pillars at the start of West Chimney. The very upper headwall may go yet, as a grand finish, to the top of Sugarloaf.