Sugarloaf Main Rock, SE area
"Bewilderbeast", 12a, Aidan Maguire. Shares first three bolts
with Beast of Burden. Sling knob just below dike, below 5th bolt.
Optional knob sling above 4th bolt. Can TR by climbing Harding's
Chimney or The Gallows Pole. Can bail to left after 8th bolt, or
continue on arete above 9th bolt to The Gallows Pole anchors.
On the East/NE wall, to the right, or north, of Lurch and Morticia, are three grand routes. Approach the "East Terrace" by any of four ways (they all look like walk-ups, but are 5th class in nature, far left one more difficult than the others). Monkey Flower and the corner route can be TR'd from a high-up triple anchor set, however, these are not at the top of the rock. There is a camouflaged double anchor under a ledge at the very top, so one can rap down to set a TR. The triple anchor set serves to allow a doubled 60m rope to reach the Terrace alcove, and to allow more than one TR or rap setup. The lower anchor set allows an easy rap to the base. All anchor sets have chain anchors; to lower from the very top requires a three-part rap to get to the base (witha 60m rope) or one may be able to rap to the Lurch anchors and get down in two raps. Please use caution when stepping up onto the rock at the lowest chain-anchor set of A Swallow's Tale, as it is marginally balanced. If it goes off, the start will be much harder.
Left side: "A Swallow's Tale", 5.9/ 5.3R. FA Jerry Klatt 5/2011, 2nd Aidan Maguire. Goes all the way to the top. Depending on how you do the bottom start (far right gully is easiest, only requiring one piece of medium gear) you will need some 14 draws, between 4 or 5 pieces of gear and 9 bolt/hangers. Use the lower & middle anchor sets for draw placements. From the lowest chain-anchor set, climb rightwards up a seam. After first move, small gear protects climbing to the first bolt/hanger. The upper section is a bit runout on easier knob climbing. Passing the triple anchor set on its left is a bit tricky (5.9?; move right for an easier pass). Climb up to a horizontal (medium cam) then straight up to last bolt; moving just a little left of the bolt is 5.8+; one can escape right for an easier exit. The route is 57m of nearly-straight-up pure enjoyment. It can be said that there isn't a move over 5.8+, however, there are reachy spots, and, hanging out getting in pieces of gear just above first chain anchor set is pretty strenuous and a bit hard to figure out.
Middle: "Monkey Flower", 10c/d, FA Aidan Maguire 5/2011. 5 bolt/hangers and small to medium gear. Optional knob sling up higher. Climb up to, then in, a right-curving dihedral with small gear for pro. Cross the dihedral where it curves sharply right, step up and clip first hanger (not shown; was added a week later). Then move right to diagonal crack, cross over, wander up the wall, then move a little left to top anchors. Route has a great wandering nature to it, and figuring out which way to pass certain difficulties is quite challenging.
Right: "Awaiting A Name", 5.11a, FA Aidan Maguire 5/2011. Climb a rapidly steepening and awkward corner, clip the bolt/hanger, then make a strenuous move to place first gear. Continue up the corner with excellent gear placements. When the corner ends, follow the smaller crack up and left. Clip the last bolt of Monkey Flower, but stay well to the right of Monkey Flower to finish at the top anchors.